Varnished Name Boards

[Vincentc]

Adressing the task of putting the new name on the boat, I concluded that the effort and expense of putting the name on the transom was wasted if the inflatable dingy mounted on the swim platform completely blocked the transom.

I had already installed a second stern light on the windbreak panel below the hand rail and concluded that the name would go just fine on that same panel and would not be blocked by the dingy.

Gold leaf vinyl lettering on a varnished mahogany name board became my ideal, and I have built a 4 1/2 x 1 foot board out of mahogany plywood glued to horizontal pieces top and bottom contoured to fit the curve of the windbreak panel and sized to allow a vertical name board on a forward slanting panel. I have 3 coats of spar varnish and will put on a 4th before sending the board to the sign people. It has occureed to me that while the gold leaf is guaranteed for 7 years, varnish work in 30 degree latitude sun is only good for about a year. I don't think I can sand and recoat over the vinyl/gold leaf lettering, and hope the lettering can have more than a one year life span. I am wondering about a clear coat over the lettered board which could be light sanded and recoated which would insulate the lettering from subsequent sanding.

Any thoughts or experiences you could share?

Thanks,

Vincent
43 DC 1983

[SKYCHENEY]

I started with 4 coats of Captains varnish, added the name, and then put another 4 coats of varnish over the whole thing. That was 5 years ago and I just lightly sand and add a couple of coats of varnish each year.

[Vincentc]

Thanks Sky

[Finalee]

The ticket is to recoat before there is a problem. I can sand and recoat handrails with a total of 1 hour on the clock.

[Brian Degulis]

I'd worry about any finish sticking to the vinyl lettering. Why not get it painted on then scuff it up with a scotchbrite pad and build up the varnish from there?

Brian

[SKYCHENEY]

My varnish has stuck to the vinyl just fine. The key is to keep up with new coats before you start to see any problems like Finalee stated.

[Walter P]

I have new sign boards (teak) port and stbd. My neighbor is in the sign business and agreed to apply gold leaf lettering to them. I have about 5 or 6 coats of Interlux #95 on them and asked her if I could varnish over the gold. She advised against applying anything over the gold leaf as it would lose it's dazzle.

Sky, you say you have applied varnish over your gold leaf. Is it real gold leaf? Also, in you opinion has it lost any dazzle?

Walt...........

[Ross Macdonald]

I concur with Sky. When we bought our 60 EB six years ago, the PO kept his nameboards. We had some made out of teak. I put 6 coats of Flagship varnish on first and then had vinyl lettering put on with gold leaf. Then 6 more coats of varnish over the name. The person who put the lettering on said to very lightly scuff with a 3M pad for first 2 coats, then light sanding with 320 grit between future coats. I usually recoat each year with 2 coats. It seems to be holding up well. Granted we don't have the sun intensity in Southern California that you have in Florida. Just my 2 cents. Ross Macdonald

[SeaEric]

I have owned many wood boats in my yachting career. All of them had gold leaf names on the varnished transom and name boards. This was always the real thing- hand applied and burnished with a machine turning finish. The genuine gold leaf MUST BE varnished over to protect it. Gold leaf is very delicate and is perishable if left uncoated. To my eye, the gold leaf really "pops" after it is coated with varnish.

On my fiberglass boats, I have had varnished name boards with vinyl gold leaf lettering. The vinyl stuff has gotten very good in recent years and really looks pretty authentic. My only criticism is that it is too perfect, lacking the hand applied patina. That said: my experience has been to varnish over the vinyl gold to lock it in on the teak boards. I have name boards from my 46 Matthews that I have retained from the sale of the boat. These boards have many coats of varnish with thickness sufficient to be flush over the thickness of the vinyl. At this point, it is almost impossible to tell this vinyl job from the genuine gold. They look fantastic.

[MicroKap]

Most of you have referred to your name boards for the sides of your boat. I believe that Vincent is going to use this for viewing the name from the stern. In regards to documented vessels, would Vincent have to include the homeport with a minimum of 4" letters on the same board? Can the name and homeport be on the transom, blocked from view by the dinghy as long as just the name is visible on the board from astern?

Of course, this is unnecessary iif Vincent's boat isn't documented, but just in case, what's the proper way of displaying your name (and homeport) from astern?

[StratPlan61]

Paint it or 'vinyl it' on the bottom of the dinghy. I believe it must be readable from astern, not hidden under the dinghy from view.

[Vincentc]

Good point re documentation requirements. The sign board is for the stern. I don't think the port name needs to be on the same board, only on the stern in minimum size letters. I think the bottom of the dingy will be a fine place indicate my home port, and will probably duplicate it on the transom.

The reported experiences with varnish over lettering is encouraging. I'll report how it turns out.

[LENZ]

I used a piece of 1/2 teak wood, first put 2 coats of siekens cetol lite, then applied the name, put 3 more coats of siekens gloss on top of the name, Still looks great after 3 years, (boat is kept indoors)

Lenz

[NAN-PO 41]

I had been told in the past that putting the name on the bottom of the dinghy was not an acceptable way to display the name on a documented vessel. I never checked into it as it has never applied to me but you may want to check before doing that.
Fred

[Walter P]

Fred,

You're absolutely correct. The bottom of a dingy is not acceptable since the dink is not a permanent hard mounted component of the vessel. That being said, I believe that it would be acceptable as long as it's also on the transom as required by law. Obviously whether the dink is there or not the identity of the documented vessel is not in question.

Walt

[LENZ]

I used a piece of 1/2 teak wood, first put 2 coats of siekens cetol lite, then applied the name, put 3 more coats of siekens gloss on top of the name, Still looks great after 3 years, (boat is kept indoors)

Lenz


I did use vinyl lettering with a simulated gold-leaf material, I believe the siekens gloss enhanced the look of the name. I worried at first to paint over the name but, said "what the hell" I did it and it looks great!

my 2 cents

Lenz

[Vincentc]

Here is one solution to the dingy blocking the boat name on the transom. Finally figured how to reduce the size of photos to acceptable size.